1931 Ford Model A 400 Convertible Sedan

The Model A 400 is an extremely rare car. It was only manufactured in 1931. It is patterned after the Victoria which was introduced in 1930. The Victoria was a bustle-back two door sedan with a padded vinyl roof. In 1931 the stylist decided to make the padded roof go down, so they put a retractable roof on the two door sedan, leaving the door posts and rear window posts intact.

As you look at this car, unlike a convertible sedan, this two door sedan has a complete door and a top and side posts on the windows and door opening.

During the Model A run, which was four years, Ford built over four million Model A’s. As far as the Model A 400 less than four thousand were manufactured. Out of those four thousand manufactured less than four hundred remain in existence today.

The vehicle pictured here is definitely a survivor, and a beautiful example of one of the most desirable Model A’s ever built, the Model A 400.

It is equipped with dual side mounted tires with six brand new white wall tires. Being a deluxe model, it has cowl lamps, quail radiator cap, and of course the famous aoogah horn. It also has a stone shield, dual door mounted rear view mirrors, dual tail lamps, a luggage rack in the rear, 4/1 piece bumper in the rear. Since the dual side mounts are located in the fenders there is no need for a split rear bumper like most Model A’s had.

It sports genuine leather seats because this is what was used when the vehicle was originally manufactured.

This particular vehicle was sold new in Arizona. It went to a collector in Colorado who gave it a complete frame – off restoration. From there it then went to a collector in Berlin, Germany and then to the USSR, where it was kept in the garage of an economical advisor of Breznev. In 1998 this car was sold to the Russian Car Auction House, where some improvements were made like installing five seat belts and vintage style turn signals.

This car was sold in 2002 and was being offered again for sale for the price of $29,100.

Happy Motoring my friends!

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1929 -1931 Model A Ford Convertible Cabriolet

The 1929 -1931 Model A Ford Convertible Cabriolets (Types 68A, B and C) were premium body styles. Cabriolets had two doors, a passenger compartment with a bench seat which could accommodate two adults comfortably and a standard rumble seat which could accommodate two additional passengers in fair weather.

Until late 1931 when the A400 was introduced, the Cabriolet was unique to the Model A line, in that it had a folding top and glass side windows. The crank operated side windows could be rolled up or down to provide weather protection with the top closed or to serve as wind wings with the top open.

The Briggs Body Company built all of the Cabriolet bodies for Ford.

The Convertible Cabriolet was added to the line in 1929 and included some design details, like the revised cowl which foreshadowed changes made to the entire line for 1930.

The 1930 Model A Cabriolet came with a four cylinder 205 cubic inch 3.3 liter engine delivering 40 HP. The 1930 Model A’s engine produced twice the power of previous Model A engines. Top speed was estimated between 55 and an unwise 65 MPH. The wheelbase was 103.5 inches. The car’s transmission was a three speed non synchromesh transmission. Brakes were four wheel mechanical. This was a significant change from the old Model T days when those automobiles only had two wheel brakes. Vehicle weight was between 2,155 and 2,495 pounds. New vehicle price ranged from $450 to $650 which reflected the slow economy that year. Among the changes from 1929 to 1930 were wider fenders, elimination of the cowl stanchion and a deeper radiator shell. Options available for 1930 included an external sun visor, a rear luggage rack, a spare tire lock and a rear view mirror. All Cabriolets were equipped with a single rear mounted spare wheel, a split rear bumper, a single left side tail light, rumble seat, cowl lamps, black wheels and black wall tires as standard equipment.

The 1930 Model A Cabriolet is a unique automobile. For years the Ford Model A was one of the most popular collector cars out there. Two reasons the Model A’s retained their popularity was that they were quite advanced over the previous Model T’s and not nearly as many were produced.

Total Ford production for the 1930 model year is estimated at 1,261,053 vehicles. The Cabriolet model is considered more valuable mainly because of lower production numbers. Only 25,068 cabriolets were built for 1930. Compare this to the 112,901 Model A Roadsters that were built. A fully restored 1930 Model A Ford Cabriolet can range between $30,00 and $40,000.

For those interested there is a Ford Model A Cabriolet Club. This is a special interest group of the Model A Ford Club of America and of the Model A restorers Club.

Happy Motoring my friends…

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The Model A Ford Club of America

The Model A Ford Club of America aka. MAFCA is celebration twenty years of being on the web, 1997 – 2017. They are the largest car club in the world dedicated to one type of automobile.

The Model A Ford Club of America is a California based not-for-profit Corporation and a national historical society dedicated to the restoration and preservation of Model A Ford vehicles as manufactured from 1929 – 1931.

MAFCA’s members are dedicated to the restoration, preservation and enjoyment of Ford vehicles of that era. Again MAFCA is the largest car club in the world dedicated to one type of automobile.

Check out their web site mafca.com where you can become a member of this club. You can find tour updated  amongst other helpful features that you might find useful.

 

The Restorer Magazine

The Restorer Magazine is a publication put out by the Model A Ford Club of America La Habra, California.

The Restorer Magazine is MAFCA’s award winning magazine which is published six times a year. It features articles about the Model a Ford, news of Chapters and activities and other interesting features. A one year subscription is included in every member’s membership package. Be sure to check this out when browsing their site. Once again my friends, Happy Motoring!

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History of the Model A Ford

The Ford Model A also known as the A-Model Ford or the A, and also the A-Bone among customizers and hotrodders was the second huge success for the Ford Motor Company, after its predecessor, the Model T. First produced in October 1927, it wasn’t sold until December, it replaced the venerable Model T, which had been produced for 18 years. This new Model A, a previous model had actually used the name from 1903 to 1904, was designated a 1928 model and was available in four standard colors.

By February 1929, one million Model A’s had been sold, and by July two million. The range of body styles ran from the Tudor, to the Town Car with a duel cowl. In March 1930, Model A sales hit three million, and there were nine body styles available.

Model A production ended in March 1932, after 4,858,644 had been made in all body styles. Its successor was the Model B, which featured an updated 4 cylinder engine as well as the Model 18, which introduced Ford’s new flathead sidevalve V8 engine.

Prices for the Model A ranged from $385 for a Roadster to $1400 for the top of the line Town Car. The engine was a water cooled L-head inline 4-cylinder with a displacement of 201 cu in. This engine provided 40 hp. The top speed was around 65 mph. The Model A had a 103.5 in. wheelbase with a final drive ratio of 3.77:1. The transmission was a conventional 3-speed sliding gear manual unsynchronized unit with a single speed reverse. The Model A had 4-wheel mechanical drum brakes. The 1930 and 1931 models were available with stainless radiator cowling and headlamp housings.

The Model A came in a wide variety of styles including a Coupe- Standard and Deluxe, the Business Coupe, Sport Coupe, Roadster Coupe- Standard and Deluxe, Convertible Cabriolet, Convertible Sedan, Phaeton- Standard and Deluxe, Tudor Sedan- Standard and Deluxe, Town Car, Fordor- 2 window- Standard and Deluxe, Fordor-3 window- Standard and Deluxe, Victoria, Station Wagon Taxicab, Truck and Commercial. The very rare Special Coupe started production in March 1928 and ended mid-1929.

The Model A was the first Ford to use the standard set of driver controls with conventional clutch and brake pedals, throttle, and gearshift. Previous Fords used controls that had become uncommon to drivers of other makes. The Model A’s fuel tank was situated in the cowl, between the engine compartment’s fire wall and the dash panel. It had a visual fuel gauge, and the fuel flowed to the carburetor by gravity. A rear-view mirror was optional. In cooler climates, owners could purchase an aftermarket cast iron unit to place over the exhaust manifold to provide heat to the cab. A small door provided adjustment of the amount of hot air entering the cab. The Model A was the first car to have safety glass in the windshield.

The Soviet company GAZ, which started as a joint venture between Ford and the Soviet Union, made a licensed version 1932-1936. This served as the basis for the FAI and BA-20 armored cars which saw use as Soviet scout vehicles in the early stages of WW11.

In addition to the United States, Ford made the Model A in plants in Argentina, Canada, Denmark, France, Germany, Japan and the United Kingdom.

In Europe, where in some countries cars were taxed according to engine size, Ford in the UK manufactured the Model A with a smaller displacement engine of 2043 cc providing a claimed output of 28 hp. However the engine equated to a British fiscal horsepower of 14.9 hp compared to the 24 hp of the larger engine and attracted a punitive car tax levy of 1 pound per fiscal hp in the UK. It therefore was expensive to own and too heavy and thirsty to achieve volume sales, and so unable to compete in the newly developing mass market, while also too crude to compete as a luxury product. European manufactured Model As failed to achieve the sales success in Europe that would greet their smaller successor in England and Germany.

From the mid 1910s through the early 1920s, Ford dominated the automotive market with its Model T. However, during the mid 1920s, this dominance eroded as competitors, especially General Motors caught up with Ford’s mass production system and began to outcompete Ford in some areas, especially by offering more powerful engines, new convenience features, or cosmetic customization. Also, features Henry Ford considered to be unnecessary, such as electric starters, were gradually shifting in the public’s perception from luxuries to essentials.

Ford’s sales force recognized the threat and advised Henry to respond to it. He resisted at first but the T’s sagging market share finally forced him to admit a replacement was needed. When he finally agreed to begin development of this new model, he focused on the mechanical aspects and on what today is called design for manufacturability (DFM), which he had always strongly embraced and for which the Model T production system was famous for. Although ultimately successful, the development of the Model A included many problems that had to be resolved. For example the die stamping of parts from sheet metal, which the Ford company had led to new heights of development of the Model T production system was something Henry had always been ambivalent about; it had brought success, but he felt that it was not the best choice for durability. He was determined that the Model A would rely more on drop forgings than the Model T; but his ideas to improve the DFM of forging did not prove practical. Eventually, Ford’s engineers persuaded him to relent, lest the Model A’s production cost force up its retail price too much. Henry’s disdain for cosmetic vanity as applied to automobiles led him to leave the Model A’s styling to a team led by his son Edsel, even though he would take credit for it despite his son doing more of the work.

The Model A was well represented in media of the era since it was one of the most common cars. Model kits are still available from hobby shops today as stock cars or hot rods.

Perhaps in reference to the remarkable upgrade from the previous Model T, a song was written about the Model A by Irving Kaufman called Henry’s Made a Lady Out of Lizzy, a reference to the moniker Tin Lizzy given to the Model T.

Several Model As have obtained fame over the years at college football games and special events. A customized roadster pickup built be George Barris won two straight America’s Most Beautiful Roadster Awards. Between October 1992 to December 1994, Hector Quevedo and his son Hugo, Drove a 1928 Model A 22,000 miles from his home in Punta Arenas, Chile to Ford headquarters in Dearborn, Michigan. The car needed minimal service, including a flat tire and transmission work I Nicaragua, and is now housed in the Henry Ford Museum. Charlie Ryan’s song Hot Rod Lincoln featured a Model A with a Lincoln flathead V12 and other modifications. Once again my friends, Happy Motoring!

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How Insuring your Model A Ford is Different From Insuring Your Ordinary Daily Driver

Insurance is the painstaking reality of auto enthusiasts. The fine print, the somewhat ridiculous terms, the crash and disaster scenarios. It gets worse when you are trying to insure your Model A Ford.

A policy is a policy, this is what the insurance agent will tell you. The difference between a regular automobile insurance policy and a collector policy is how it treats the value of the automobile. For most of the automobiles on America’s roads, that value is based on a relatively straightforward depreciation schedule.

An estimate of around 18 to 20 million automobiles in the United States  generally qualify as collectable, antique, custom or classic cars. Usually they are not used every day and they are driven only a few miles every year and their true value has nothing to do with depreciation. Classic car insurance policies are typically based upon an agreed value assessment of a cars worth. For preserved or restored classic cars it is usually based on sales and auction results. Most of the time an appraisal is not necessary. But one can be used when determining a specialty vehicles value or to resolve a disagreement. Hot rods for example reflect the builders personality and taste and doesn’t always translate into widespread desire in the market. These cases may involve more negotiations based on the effort and money sunk into the vehicle.

The Largest Populations of Collector Car Owners Are in These Five States:

1 California

2 Michigan

3 New York

4 Florida

5 Texas

These Are The Top 10 Most Common Collector Models:

1 Chevrolet Corvette

2 Ford Mustang

3 Chevrolet Camaro

4 Chevrolet Bel Air

5 Ford Model A

6 Ford Thunderbird

7 Volkswagen Beetle

8 Chevrolet C10 Pickup

9 Chevrolet Impala

10 Chevrolet Chevelle

Limited use insurance policies for collector cars is available from specialists such as Hagerty and Grundy, as well as national players such as State Farm. There is no specific limitation on mileage in most cases, but putting 10,000 miles on your vehicle in a year might warrant a policy change. If you get into a fender bender at Lowes while your Model A Ford is loaded down with lumber and house paint the insurer might suspect that you are not treating your vehicle like the cherished icon that it is.

The most common collector car claims originate in the garage. Specialty insurance agents are used to dealing with such claims as the vehicle fell off of the jack stands, carburetor fires and falling boxes. The big advantage of collector car insurance is the cost. Studies show that collector policies only generate about one-tenth of the number of claims that that standard policies do. Fewer claims usually mean lower prices. While many individual variables go into calculating premiums, a $20,000 collectable car in the Santa Barbara area might be insured for as little as $90 every six months. A regular use policy on a similarly valued daily driver might be as high as five times that amount. So while your agent will always tell you where to send the check, at least it will be a little less.

High end vehicles from the mid six figure range on up are just about impossible to total. As long as the identification plate can be salvaged, the vehicle can be rebuilt around it. Specialty agent are used to dealing with these claims and accommodating repairs that might require an expert not available at your local repair shop. They might also be more understanding when an owner makes a total loss claim but wants to keep the wreckage.

Happy Motoring my friends!

 

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How to Get Your Ford Model A Into Show Vehicle Condition

images1BZG8SC3(1)Making your Ford Model A into a show quality vehicle is not an easy task, but it is not impossible. First and foremost you have to love what you are going to be doing and to be willing and able to spend a lot of time doing it. It’s just a matter of putting in the labor to make your dream into a show car reality. Here are a few helpful suggestions to get you started.

Make Room for Work and Storage

You are going to need plenty of room to restore your Model A to show quality standards. You will most likely have to dismantle parts of the vehicle to work on it, and this will surely take up a lot of space. You should try to have enough space as the size of a two car garage, where one area can be for the many parts that you will be working on and the other part can be for  putting your Model A back together.

Prepare for the Unexpected

As with any large project you should always prepare for the unexpected because more than likely you will run into this. Most restoration projects will turn out to be more work than you expected. If you should come across something that you are not experienced with or that you are just plain afraid to do don’t be embarrassed, call in a professional to help you. You should try to find one before you start your restoration. It will save you money and frustration in the long run.

Use What You Have

One thing that you should definitely do is to use as much of the vehicles original parts as possible, like the mirrors and the hood ornaments. It will really boost the value of your Model A at the car show if you have old great looking parts. Don’t replace anything unless it is irreparable but ensure that the vehicle is fully functioning when you are done. Make sure to check the engine, transmission, brakes and everything else in the car and replace what needs to be replaced. You might just need to clean some things off.

Fix the Body

Check the body for any dents and dings. You should have a professional take those out. The area where the dents and dings are will have to be sanded so the paint and primer have a clean smooth surface to adhere to. If there are enough dents and dings most likely you will have to have a complete paint job. If this should be the case you should look at some Ford Model A magazines and websites to get a general idea about which color you would like to paint your vehicle. After the body work is complete it is smart to have a professional paint the vehicle.

Clean the Vehicle

When you are finished with your restoration you will need to make sure that the entire vehicle is completely detailed from top to bottom. You should have your engine steam cleaned and make sure that all of the fluids are full. The interior should be looking immaculate. When you are finished the vehicle should look as mint as you can possibly get it.

guidelinescompleteCar Show Displays to Help Your Vehicle Stand Out

A good display at the car show can really help your vehicle stand out from the crowd. After all you will have some very good looking vehicles all around you. You should have a few good ideas to ensure that your vehicle gets noticed. It takes a little imagination but not a lot of money to create a good car show display. Here are some ideas that might help.

                                                           Mirrors

You have spent an insane amount of time fixing up, painting and cleaning the entire inside and outside including the underside of your vehicle. You have been in all of the nooks and crannies that people will not normally see. A good way to show off what you have done in these normally inaccessible places is by using mirrors. Carefully placed a mirror or two will show people just how much work was actually done to the vehicle, and how good the underside of your vehicle looks. Make sure that yuou get the lighting right. You can use mirrors to show off other areas of your vehicle also like some detailing in the drivers compartment.

     Signs

Instead of just showing your vehicle, you can tell them about it with a display sign. You can attach some photo’s illustrating how you restored the vehicle, along with some attractive writing you will have a guaranteed item that will make people stop and take notice of your vehicle. You can use multiple signs to tell the vehicle story. Leave enough space so people can walk around the vehicle, afterall you want everyone to see all of the hard work that you have put into the vehicle.

     Car Stand

Most of the other vehicles will just be sitting there on the ground with the doors and hood open. If you really want your vehicle to stand out put the front end up on a stand. It will make it a lot easier for people to see the underside of your vehicle. They will see how much work you have done to the engine and suspension. Another plus that the stand achieves is it will make your vehicle stand taller than the rest and will help you draw a crowd. The more your vehicle stands out the more the people will look at it.

     Display Board

A tall display board behind your vehicle will certainly turn heads. Use a display board instead of signs to help tell the story of your restoration. You can make it in three parts, on a frame about six feet tall, similar to what you would see at a trade show. A board like this would make a great car show display. Again my friends, Happy Motoring!

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Pricing a Ford Model A and Assigning a Grade Before Purchasing Vehicle

1930 Model A Deluxe Roadster

I found this to be very helpful. It is an article sent to the Northern Ohio Model A Club by Dan Crum who was at the time this was written, ( Circ: 1991 ) a certified Model A appraiser for several automobile insurance carriers and also an experienced contest judge. He has bought, sold and restored a large number of Model A’s and is highly qualified to discuss the subject of pricing.

Pricing a Model A begins with a thorough inspection of the vehicle. You will find that the following tools are indispensable.

Camera with Flash – Use the camera to document the vehicle, both inside and out. You can check the photo’s later to make sure that the vehicle you inspected is the same one that you are purchasing. Also you can use them to compare against the next vehicle that you inspect.

Pencil and Paper – Make notes of the color, accessories, options and the final Grade given to the vehicle. Also make sure that you list the engine serial number which will be needed later for insurance purposes.

Good Light Source and a Mechanics Creeper – Use these to inspect the shocks, linkages, exhaust system and the entire underside of the vehicle.

Model A Engine Crank – Use the crank to make sure that the engine turns freely. If it doesn’t the vehicle may not be worth purchasing because engine work can be extremely expensive.

Areas to Inspect

There are four major areas to inspect to determine the overall condition of a Ford Model A.

Exterior – Stand a short distance away from the vehicle and walk around it while checking for dents and body lean. Assess the overall body condition including the sheet metal, roof and the paint.

Interior – Check the upholstery, the wood graining, windows, shades and hardware. Spend some time doing this because new upholstery alone can cost upwards of $5,000, so take your time doing this.

Drivetrain – The drivetrain includes everything underneath underneath the vehicle including the drive shaft, transmission, differential, shocks and linkages. This is where the mechanic’s creeper and light source will come into play. Don’t forget to check the wheels, tires and hubcaps. Also inspect the bumpers and brackets and the exhaust system.

Engine Area – Check the cooling system, electrical wiring, generator, starter, steering column and carburetor. Determine the overall condition of the engine. Has it been rebuilt? Check the serial number to make sure that it is correct for the model year. Here is where you will use the crank to determine if the engine turns freely.

After the inspection is complete the Model A can now be Graded from 1 to 6 on the following.

Grade 1 – Vehicle should be in excellent condition. It has been completely restored with new paint and upholstery or it will be in original mint condition which has not been repainted. A Grade 1 vehicle could easily win a first place trophy at a National Meet.

Grade 2 – Vehicle will be very similar to Grade 1 but will show some signs of wear ( stone chips, wrinkled upholstery )

Grade 3 – Basically a good solid car. It might need one but not all of the following; new upholstery, new engine or a new paint job. If you can do these yourself this may be the vehicle for you to purchase. These are considered to be good driver’s.

Grade 4 – Vehicle is in fair condition but might need restoration in two of the areas mentioned in Grade 3.

Grade 5 – This vehicle will need complete restoration. The amount of work needed is reflected in the much lower value listed in the price guide. Be aware that a complete restoration could take up to and beyond 1,200 hours to complete.

Grade 6 – This vehicle needs a lot of help. It is a complete basket case perhaps disassembled by someone else who lost interest in the project. This may be the vehicle for you. The hard dirty work has already been done by someone else. Make sure that you check the parts very carefully. If something is missing make sure that yuou look around very carefully because it might have been packed away in a box or drawer and forgotten about.

The numerical Grade given to the vehicle can be translated into a dollar amount by checking a price guide such as “ 2017 Collector Car Price Guide “ published by Old Cars Report Price Guide. Remember that prices do fluctuate so make sure that you are looking in the most current issue available.

The pricing used here are just examples.

1930 Ford Model A Deluxe Roadster

Grade 6 – $1460
Grade 5 – $4380
Grade 4 – $7300
Grade 3 – $16430
Grade 2 – $25550
Grade 1 – $36500

Remember this is only an example of pricing because actual judgeing condition determines value. Grade 1 Model A Deluxe Roadsters can bring upwards of $36000.
This should give you a general idea of what you need to do before purchasing your Ford Model A. Again my friends, Happy Motoring.

 

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Tips for Properly Winterizing and Storing Your Model A


Model A Ford StorageBefore Storing

The first thing you should do is select a location that is dark and dry and that has limited access. Preferably it should have a concrete floor. Concrete is best because it will help keep out moisture. If you must store it on a dirt floor you will need to put a plastic barrier underneath the vehicle, also place pieces of carpet and or plywood under the tire area. Make sure to give the vehicle a good washing and waxing. Do this because pulling a car cover on and off the vehicle will lead to unwanted scratches if the vehicle is dirty. Fill the fuel tank [Preferably with premium fuel] and add fuel stabilizer. Be sure to run the vehicle to move the stabilizer into the fuel line,carburetor etc. The fuller the tank the better because there will be less room for air. Air as we know causes moisture which can lead to fuel contamination and possibly cause rust to form in the tank. Change the oil and filter right before you store it. Clean oil will reduce the chances of contaminants working away at your engine. Check and fill the antifreeze as needed. Check the air pressure in the tires. If you are storing your vehicle off site you need to check with your insurer because some require you to report the off site address.

When Storing

It is smart to place boxes of baking soda in the interior. To help keep insects and vermin out of the vehicle you should place a plastic bag over the air cleaner air inlet and exhaust pipe. You can also cover these areas with aluminum foil and tape them securely. Before covering the exhaust pipe place mothballs and or steel wool in the pipe. Place mothballs all around the outside of the vehicle. Put the vehicle on jack stands to avoid flat spots in your tires and it will also add life to the vehicle’s suspension by not bearing the weight of the vehicle during storage. If you are removing the battery make sure you remove the Negative cable first and store the battery separate from the vehicle. Do not store it on a concrete floor or where it can freeze. You can also leave it in the vehicle and connect a battery tender also known as a trickle charger to it providing there is power where you are storing your vehicle. I don’t recommend this because unless you plan on starting the vehicle and bringing up to operating temperature for at least ten or fifteen minutes to burn off the water vapors that occur during cold starts starting is not a good idea.You can wind up with water in the combustion chamber and all of the exhaust componenets.

Starting for the First Time

Charge the battery for a full twenty four hours. When reinstalling it back into the vehicle make sure that you attach the Positive cable first. Once the vehicle is uncovered check for signs of insect and vermin damage. Carefully remove the boxes of baking soda. You might want to check the floorboards for leaks. Check all of the fluid levels and add as needed. Make sure that you check the air pressure in the tires. Remove the plastic bags, aluminum foil and steel wool from the air cleaner and exhaust pipe. Next try the brakes to make sure that you have a good pedal. Steel brake lines can rust and leak and vermin can chew through the rubber hoses. Start the vehicle and look for any signs of fluid leakage. Let the engine warm up really good. Check all of the lights, the horn and all of the other components. When the engine is fully warmed up drive it slowly for the first mile or two to allow the transmission and the rear end to get properly lubricated. After driving the vehicle for a while check it again for any leaks. One final thing make sure that you properly clean the car cover and properly store it so it can be used again next year. Happy Motoring……

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Tax Considerations when Selling Your Classic Car

Tax Considerations when Selling Your Classic CarSadly, the time has come to sell your classic car. While this can be a time of mourning for many owners, you can at least celebrate the economic windfall that will be added to your bank account. However, the federal government usually takes a bit of that surplus that you will make in taxes. Exactly how much depends on many different factors and it can be quite complicated to figure everything out. Accounts or tax professionals might charge you a pretty for their services. Instead, we offer you here a few tax considerations when selling your classic car.

History of Your Classic Car

The tax implications for selling your classic car really depend on the individual history of the car itself. Classic cars in particular require careful consideration when it comes to tax time. The age, condition, repair history and other factors contribute heavily to the worth of any car. Yet when it comes to the sale, most sellers can sell their classic car for much more than the amount that they paid for it. The financial profit difference between what you buy and sell it for is called a “capital gain.” In most cases, a capital gain creates a tax liability with the government. Since the capital gains tax rate depends on your income, you will want to check with the IRS to find out your specific bracket. The rate itself can also depend on the length of ownership. If you owned the car for over a year, which most classic car owners do, than it qualifies as a long-term capital gain. Thankfully, long-term capital gain taxes are usually lower than their short-term counterparts.

Classic Car Tax Deductions

While you will probably have to pay taxes on the sale of a classic car, you can often deduct many of the costs of maintaining the car’s worth. Any restoration costs, tags, detailing, repairs, and some insurance premiums can be counted towards the original price of the car and is thus tax deductible. Most importantly, to prove to the IRS that you actually incurred them, you need receipts for all of those costs.

As long as you track your sale and keep records of everything, if you slip up on taxes, at least you’ll have the records to fix it. For more information and to get it right the first time though, check out our recommended classic car finance resources.

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Popular Customizations for Classic Pickups

Customize Your Classic TruckLet’s say that you recently decided to buy a classic pickup. You really love the car but you want to put your own stamp on it and truly make it yours. Classic pickups are one of the most loved types of vehicles out there: they come in all kinds of different shapes, sizes, styles, colors and ages. So it can be hard to know how to customize it in a way that you love. In general, the two major categories for customizations are style and structure.

A Classy Style for a Classic Pickup

Classic truck owners report that the feature they love the most about classic pickups is the way they look. Aesthetics matter quite a lot. So when it comes to customizing your vehicle, you might as well start with its style.

A common way to do this is by adding various accessories to the body or back of a classic pickup. For example, one very popular option is to get a custom paint job. Whether it is flames lining the doors or a dragon along the tailgate, custom paint jobs can range from fully redoing the entire exterior to adding on smaller decals. Alternatively, install a new lighting system, such as fog lights on the top of the cab or colored lights on the bottom. Finally, put in a sub-woofer or speakers to get the music bumping.

A New Structure for a Classic Pickup

Another popular customization is to somehow modify the basic structure of the vehicle. Classic pickups usually come with fairly standardized structures, and modifying it can give it that unique touch. One way to change the structure is to adjust the ride height, either by putting in a lift kit to raise the truck or shortening the coil springs to lower it closer to the ground. Similarly, you can put in cool new alloy wheels or install a snorkel exhaust to stop water from entering the exhaust if you are going to take the truck off road.

While types of customizations can be popular, certain models of classic trucks even more famous. Find popular classic trucks for your personal project.

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